As the festive season approaches, I think of my mom and her enigmatic smile, and how she diligently and lovingly prepared our favourite Christmas sweets. One of these is nacatole. In many households in Calabria and wherever Calabresi are dispersed around the world, Christmas is a time of renewal. Nonne pass along the family recipe, and mothers and daughters bond around this jubilant activity.
The ancient Byzantine recipe (the name is derived from the dialect, naca-culla or rocking the crib of baby Jesus), suggests the shape of the treat, like a cradle, and symbolizes new birth. It is a unique expression of local customs and a ritual dating back one thousand years. Nacatole are also given as gifts to express il buon augurio, good wishes, for newborns any time of year.
The entire family usually participates in preparing, purchasing or simply enjoying these delicious doughnut-like, sweet fritters. They are appreciated with a shot of anise liqueur or a strong espresso laced with anise. Enjoying them sparks the perfect holiday cheer. Anise is absolutely the secret ingredient in this ageless recipe. It is institutionalized in the Calabrese Gazzetta Ufficiale and listed in national directories like the Elenco Nazionale dei Prodotti Agroalimentari Tradizionali. The ingredients used in Calabria are wholesome and taken from the terroir. They consist of unprocessed flour (natural grains), farm-fresh eggs, sugar, EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) from local olive groves, and the liquorice-like anise. Fresh lemons may be used as well, mostly to add a zesty fragrance.
In other parts of the world, wherever Calabrese live, they prepare nacatole with their local ingredients and continue the tradition as faithfully as possible. I was born and raised in Montreal, and learned from my mom. I have since taught my daughter. No doubt, our results are not DOP, but we feel connected to our traditions, as we attempt to twirl the ropes of dough, or braid them around our wooden spoons to form the holy cradles that are then deep-fried. The process is a festive family occasion that commemorates our heritage.
The precise origin of nacatole is uncertain, but according to tradition, they were invented by Byzantine monks. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Byzantines held sway over Calabria for centuries. During that period, many monasteries were established. In addition to their religious devotion, monks dedicated themselves to farming. It is thanks to them that many culinary traditions were either maintained or begun.
Like the Tuscan tradition of dipping cantuccini in Vin Santo or the pairing of sparkling spumante with panettone in Milan, nacatole at Christmas in Calabria is an ancient tradition. The next time you savour nacatole and sip aromatic anise, think of the history intertwined in that sweet moment, thank the monks, hug your mother, and fully celebrate the holiday season together!
Nacatole Recipe
DRY INGREDIENTS
4 cups of flour
2 cups of sugar
3 tablespoons of baking powder
Pinch of salt
WET INGREDIENTS
6 eggs (room temperature)
1 cup of anise or ouzo
One-third cup of EVOO
PREPARATION
- Mix dry ingredients; make a well and then slowly incorporate the wet ingredients that have been blended thoroughly.
- Knead the dough and let it stand (and rise slightly) for about an hour.
- On a floured surface, knead the dough again (adding more flour if required). Create a log and cut into pieces that are rolled out into ropes of dough.
- Twirl the dough around a wooden spoon or simply twirl the ropes together like a braid.
- In a large pan add vegetable oil or your preferred frying oil. When the oil is very hot, dip the shaped cradles for deep frying.
- Fry for about five minutes on each side, until the nacatole are golden brown; then place on a paper towel to absorb the excess oil.
- When the nacatole are cooled, sprinkle icing or confectioner’s sugar over them (and a dash of cinnamon, if you like).
- The yield is 30 to 40 nacatole.
Buon Natale … Merry Christmas!
Maria Luisa Ierfino-Adornato is a Montreal freelance writer. She is the author of the historical novels McCord’s Quiet Rebellion and McCord’s Griffintown (Chronicler). Maria is a regular contributor to Accenti Magazine.
